BMP-3's are an extremely versatile unit that come equipped with four ATGM's with 21AP and 2800m of range that are excellent at dealing with enemy vehicles of all kinds at range. You essentially buy Motostrelki '90 just for the BMP-3 they come with. Note 1: You can shuttle supplies between your units and your FOB instead of buying more supply trucks, this saves you points and can really add up.Īn odd combination, one of the worst infantry units in the game paired with one of the best IFV's in the game. Being able to resupply and repair your units is crucial, and no deck can go without it. Having at least one card of supply trucks is always good practice. Remember that you can always choose to delete it during deployment if you feel you don't need one. You're using this slot not only for the supplies but for the tactical flexibility of owning a FOB. It is always good practice to have a FOB in your deck, teams need supplies to win games and in all but the most specific cases it's almost always better to have a FOB. While it does have a gun capable of defending itself, it will trade poorly against enemy tanks and should avoid combat unless absolutely necessary. Use the T-72K1 to capture heavily contested sectors or leave it at spawn to secure yourself against cheap helicopter flanks. It's best to take the cheapest and most readily available unit possible.Ī fairly sturdy tank CV. Not much to say here, it's almost never worth it to buy lightly armored vehicle CV's as they reduce availability and don't provide any real survivability. After you've dropped off your CV, the helicopter they come in can function as a solid fire support unit or be placed on the flanks to prevent enemy sneaking.Ī cheap, fast and readily available jeep CV. Use Infantry CV to cap important sectors (such as your spawn) and town-heavy sectors. Having a 5man squad instead of an easy to spot, poorly armored vehicle can save you a lot of trouble, especially in zones that the enemy enjoys bombing. Infantry CV's are small and hard to spot, and most of all very beefy. A good Soviet deck acts as the "swiss knife" of their team, powerful on their front while having tools to support their teammates in any situation.Ĭommand Infantry in a rocket pod helicopter is the crème de la crème of CV choices. Indeed, you're spoiled for choice when deck building and this can be very intimidating for some people. Offset your cost efficiency disadvantage but controlling the open fields with powerful tanks and even things out for your infantry with effective fire support such as the Buratino and 4HE tanks.ĭespite their disadvantages, Soviets are one of the most adaptable factions in the game and have a tool for every conceivable situation. Very few of your units are effective on their own, and your deployments should reflect this. You'll have to use your units intelligently, and having them support each other is much more important than it is in other nations. As the Soviets, you will simply have less units than your opponent due to the relative cost of your units compared to other factions. They key to performing well with Soviets is unit preservation. Soviets are at their weakest when spread across many flanks, as their units are simply too expensive and specialized to cover multiple areas at a reasonable price. Soviet units are heavily specialized and not cost effective, many of them have a very specific role and will require support from other specialized units to stay alive. Soviet decks perform best when focused on a singular front, using the sheer quality of their units to force a breakthrough and crush the enemy line. In general, USSR units are expensive but well armed, which reflects in the deck's playstyle. below i usually buy only because i think it might get sniped by a plane and i want to safe points and have the feeling i still get the job done with a cheaper tank like 145p abrams.Deck Code: like to show you guys one of my favorite decks, USSR. they can really dominate a whole sector just with their presence in the top pricerange of 160-180p. anyway i have usually 3-4 tankcards in my decks i use for 1v1&2v2.ġ) firesupport/flankprotection/forrestfighting is something like 30-50pĢ) workhorse/antivehicletank/lighttankvstankcombat can start at 50 but usually something like 70-120points thats usually what i get when i feel i need a tank.ģ) anything above is usally only to fight off other tanks only or maybe heavy armor vehicles like a bmpt but this job a 100p tank can do as well. i would differentiate between like 3 types of tanks according to their price though i would not get to fixed around such ideas, they are more to help to get an understanding to develop an own playstyle i would say. but i guess general wisdom is to very much use them in every deck. nande showed against faust latley some ways to overcome this.
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